While beards, flannels, and Rainbow Sandals are mellow, they won't actually make you mellow. They're just cozy, comfort clothes that keep ladies from seeing our averaged-sized peni. You can own every color Zig-Zag (actually called winos) shoe known to man, work for Vice (biggest jock bullies ever), be friends with Thomas Campbell, wear cut-off levi for surf trunks, scribble on your board, have a "rock band", but deep down inside you're still standing around the quad throwing shit at the less-cool kids and hoping daddy will love you. Go buy that Volcom hat you've been secretly eyeing, turn up the bill and spray a kook, like you know you've been dying to. It's natural, it's what you we destined to do. This Mollusk, Malloy, fixed-gear charade has got to be killing you. Scream faggot, it's okay, you were born for this. This applies to all action sports fanatics; surfers, skater, and snowboarder -- rollerbladers you're alright with me, roll on...
In closing, I would like to thank all the creeps who think they're not jocks because a well meaning friend made them listen to Morrissey, Magnetic Fields, and a couple of other legitimately, gay in a good way bands, for ruining my renewed interest in surfing. Cigars are just cigars and you my friends are jocks if there ever were one's. Californian rednecks from Malibu to Imperial Beach. There have alway been a few misfits like George Greenough but it's always been a macho man's game. If you want to really honest with yourself Mickey Dora was a piece of shit for certain...
In this archive there is a little beauty but mostly pain. It was an act of futility, an attempt for me to recapture the spirit of California in 1979. Perhaps it's still possible to catch that vibe somewhere further down the line. Oregon?
It's the players, not the game. The game is too beautiful for words.
The End.














